Pork simmered in coconut milk with shrimp paste and plenty of chilli, named after a fast train line and known for its heat.
Bicol express
- 500 g pork belly, sliced thin
- 400 ml coconut milk
- 2 tbsp shrimp paste (bagoong)
- 4 to 6 green chillies, sliced (more for extra heat)
- 1 onion, sliced
- 3 cloves garlic, chopped
- 2 cm ginger, sliced
- 1 tbsp oil
- Heat the oil in a pot and fry the garlic, onion and ginger until fragrant.
- Add the pork and cook until lightly browned.
- Stir in the shrimp paste.
- Pour in the coconut milk and bring to a simmer.
- Simmer for 30 to 40 minutes until the pork is tender and the sauce has thickened.
- Stir in the chillies for the final 5 minutes of cooking, and serve with rice.
What is Bicol Express?
Bicol Express is a rich, spicy pork stew from the Bicol region of the Philippines, an area known for cooking with coconut milk and chillies. Pork belly is simmered in coconut milk with shrimp paste, garlic, onion and plenty of long green chillies until the sauce turns thick and oily.
The dish takes its name from a train service that ran to Bicol from Manila. It is eaten with lots of plain rice to balance the heat.
Ingredient notes and UK swaps
- Pork: pork belly is traditional. Pork shoulder is a leaner option.
- Chillies: long green finger chillies (siling haba) are mild to medium. Green jalapeños are a good UK swap, and a few bird eye chillies add more heat.
- Coconut milk: full fat tins. Some cooks add coconut cream at the end for extra richness.
- Shrimp paste: sautéed bagoong from Filipino shops. Fish sauce is a milder swap.
Serving and storing
Serve with steamed rice and a plain green vegetable. Bicol Express keeps for 3 days in the fridge and freezes well for up to 2 months. Reheat gently and add a splash of water if the sauce is too thick.
Tips for the best bicol express
- Adjust the chilli quantity to taste, this dish is meant to be properly hot, but the heat is easy to scale down.
- Simmer uncovered towards the end so the coconut milk reduces and thickens rather than staying thin.
Adjusting the chilli level
Bicol Express is meant to be properly hot, but the chilli count is easy to scale down for a milder version without losing the dish’s character, since the coconut milk and shrimp paste still carry plenty of flavour on their own.
Frequently asked questions
Is Bicol Express very spicy?
Traditionally yes, it is one of the hotter well-known Filipino dishes, though the chilli amount can be reduced.
What is bagoong (shrimp paste) used for here?
It adds a deep, savoury, slightly funky base note that balances the coconut milk and chilli.
Can I make Bicol Express with chicken?
Yes. Use boneless chicken thigh and cut the cooking time to about 20 minutes.
